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MEENAKARI
Meenakari
the art of enamlling, known as Menakari, has been an indigenous craft
of the India. Enamelling was done basically to test the quality of
gold because as the saying goes, "the purer the gold, the brighter
the enamel." Hence the gold used, was of high standerd of purity,
in order to produce the finest kind of enamel.
An ornament is crafted in gold and then handed over tothe 'Chitera'
(artist) for the desired design which is then outlined by the 'Thathera'
(engraver). Finally the ornament goes to the 'Meenasaz' (enameller),
who applies different colours with brushes on the engraved design.
The
surface of the pits in the gold are ornamented with etching, which
serve not only to make the enamel adhere frimly, but to increase
its beauty by the play of the light and shade through the transparent
colours. Before applying the enamel, the surface isthroughly burnished
and cleaned, the paint, which may have over-flowed, is carefully
wiped with a piece of cotton and the article is left in the fire
for half an hour for the enamel to be set frimly. It is then rubbed
with corundumbone or 'Sohan' and again put in fire. The acid of
tarmarind or lemon is then applied to the article. While in the
furnace the article to be enamelled is placed on a plate of mica
to keep it from direct contact with fire. It is very carefully shielded
while cleaning or dying to prevent any dust attaching to it.
Colours are applied in the order of their hardiness or power of
resisting fire, beginning with the hardest. In the order of their
resistance the colour are white, blue, green, black and red. Pure
ruby is the most difficult to handle and it is only the most experienced
workers who can bring out its beauty. It was the jaipur enameller
who alone could give a uniform transperent lusture to this colour,
which facinated all who saw it. All colour known can be enamelled
on to gold. Black, green, blue, dark yellow, orange and pink can
adhere to copper; of these is the last is made to stay on with difficulty.
Colours are procured in vitreous lumps and are ground with mortar
and pestle and mixed with water.
Enamellers from Lahore (where they migrated to, from persia ), were
brought to jaipur (Rajesthan) in the 16th -17th and 18th century.
In India, craftsmen From Punjab, Jaipur, Lucknow and Varanasi possessed
Knowledge about this intricate craft and the Varanasi and Jaipur
enamel reached a high stage of perfaction and remained un matched
in any part of the country.
The ornament of Kundan work are combined with enamelling, so that
the particular prices of jewellery has two equally beautiful surface-
the precious stones set on the front side and enamelling at the
back. One reason why the enamel of this period has endured is, because
it never come in contect with the skin. Neclaces were attached to
strips of velvet, which not only proved comfertable but also prevented
friction with skin and at the same time preserved the enamel.
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